The Complete Wool Care Guide: Why Most People Wash It Wrong

Wool gets damaged in the wash more often than almost any other fabric — not because it is inherently fragile, but because people apply the same logic they use for cotton and get a felted, shrunken mess. The rules for wool are different, and the reasons for them are grounded in the structure of the fibre itself.

Why wool felts and shrinks

Wool fibres are covered in tiny scales, similar to the structure of human hair. When exposed to heat and agitation simultaneously, these scales lock together irreversibly — a process called felting. Once felted, the fabric is permanently damaged: it cannot be stretched back to its original shape. This is why the temperature and spin settings for wool are not optional.

The correct wash process

Machine washing wool is safe if done correctly. Use the wool or delicates cycle on your machine — these cycles use very low agitation and slow spin speeds specifically to prevent felting. Water temperature should be 30°C or below; most machines have a specific wool programme that manages this automatically. Use a detergent formulated for wool — standard detergents are alkaline and can damage wool protein fibres over time.

Drying wool correctly

Never tumble dry wool. The combination of heat and tumbling will felt it. After washing, gently press — do not wring — the garment in a clean dry towel to remove excess water. Lay flat on a dry towel or drying rack, reshape gently to its original dimensions, and allow to air dry away from direct heat or sunlight. Hanging a wet wool garment will cause it to stretch out of shape as the weight of the water pulls on the fibres.

Storing wool between seasons

Moths are attracted to wool, cashmere and other animal fibres — specifically to the keratin protein in the fibre. Before storing for the season, wash all wool garments even if they appear clean: moths are particularly attracted to body oils and food residues that aren't visible. Store folded, not hung, in breathable bags or boxes. Cedar blocks and lavender sachets deter moths without the chemical residue of mothballs.